Home is where the rain ain’t - Guerrilla Camping 101.8

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Home is where the rain ain’t - Guerrilla Camping 101.8

I like to joke that I am professionally homeless. But nothing can be further from the truth. The truth is, I am habitually at home. No matter where I find myself, I can usually make myself at home with little effort and with quite a bit of variety. The three basic principles in making a home, be it a straw-bale and cob palace or a simple tarp stretched between two trees, are always the same, environment, materials and design.

Tents:

There are several good reasons to choose a tent. I think one of the best reasons for a guerilla camper is the sense of legitimacy a tent brings. A plastic tarp, while being very useful and versatile, screams vagrant. A tent, on the other hand, calmly introduces yourself as a camper. Tents are more weatherproof than tarps, almost always provide better protection from bugs and are often more wind resistant than tarps. All things considered, I believe the most compelling reason to buy a tent is the sense of security they give you. I know that the first few times I slept under the stars I honestly expected a raccoon to bite my face off in my sleep and can only guess that many feel the same way for the first few times.

There are also several reasons to avoid a tent. Tents are the least versatile form of “mobile home”, except maybe actual mobile homes. If a pole breaks, in many cases you wind up with an enlarged bivy sack, since most modern tents don’t use straight pole design. While bent poles make for more stable tents, they are also an Achilles tendon. If a fiberglass pole breaks, duct tape will only do so much. If you buy a fiberglass pole tent, try to replace the poles with aluminum if possible. The slight added weight is worth the security. Older straight pole tents allow you to improvise with sticks and unless you know a lot more about bamboo than I do, improvising with a curved pole tent is impossible. When I do carry a tent, I also carry a small plastic tarp to use as a ground sheet. The ground sheet protects the floor of the tent from punctures and should the tent become unserviceable, the groundsheet can double as a tarp.

There are lots of types of tents.

Summer and “3 season” tents.

My first civilian tent was an ultra light 3 season hoop tent. You can recognize these tents because they will usually consist of a large amount of mosquito netting with an attached rain fly. Great for hot humid conditions, they can have serious drawbacks in even moderate showers if not constructed well and erected properly. The rain fly (A waterproof cape that extends over the mesh roof of the tent) should hang well above the netting and extend several inches below it on the sides, if not coming completely to the ground. If the rain fly will brush against the mesh in the wind, consider the tent useless. During a rain storm, condensation will collect inside the rain fly and when the rain fly is battered against the mesh, drops of water will fall into the tent. This is would not be that bad, except that your floor will be much more waterproof than your ceiling; leaving no place for the water to go. What feels like an intermittent drip can become a swimming pool by morning, and a wet sleeping bag, besides being dangerous in cold weather, can weigh ten to fifteen times what it weights dry when you carry it out the next day.

Mountaineering (winter) Tents.
Mountaineering tents are the SUVs of the tent world. Heavy, big and as totally enclosed as possible. Often not needed except in the dead of winter or when traveling to tundra, many four season tents are convertible, allowing you to leave a few poles out, leave parts at home or even erect the tent with only the rain fly and a footprint, making it remarkably similar to a tarp in it’s functionality and vulnerability to bugs. Fortunately they are often only needed late in the fall and early in the spring, in extreme northern and southern polar regions, or at high altitudes.

Family or Basecamp tents: These are of no importance to the guerilla camper. They are heavy, obvious and almost always too large to carry on an individual. Great for weekend outings with the guys from your frat and their favorite kegs, I will happily admit to knowing little about them besides how difficult it seemed for my parents to put ours up when I was a little kid. If you have little guerrillas running about, you might need to look into the, but there are four person backpacking tents that would seem to work great for two adults and two children. Basecamp tents belong in the realm of the military, and there is honestly little need for guerrillas to set up headquarters.

Beyond tents, there are a variety of other methods of keeping yourself sheltered in the great outdoors.

Tarps:

Tarps are the most versatile and lightest form of portable shelter. Able to be pitched at varying angles, in varying configurations or even used as a small portion of a larger natural shelter, tarps prove useful to carry even when toting a tent. They have no notable resistance to bugs, however and without solid experience in setting them up and campsite selection they can be the least weather resistant shelters around. The basic infantry shelter, carried in halves is a form of tarp and has served soldiers since the first world war with only the complaining one would expect from soldiers. Some modern light weight camping companies sell tarps made of silicon impregnated nylon or sil-nylon for short for upwards of a hundred dollars. While I appreciate the amazing lightness and durability of the material, I can’t exactly praise the company that makes it, so I have avoid them until I can find a manufacturer not licensed by Dupont. Simple 3 dollar hardware store tarps work just as well and if you can notice the extra pound you should be walking more.

Ponchos:

Poncho pitching is identical to tarps, however I place them in a separate category because there are vast differences in their design and versatility. Ponchos are issued to ever soldier in the army. As basic rain gear, it is useful since it covers the pack as well as the person though it does leave your legs to get soaked in monsoons or tropical storms. Given it’s design, which includes grommets and snaps, it can be used as a shelter by itself or snapped to other ponchos to create larger shelters. With proper training and proper equipment it is even possible to use two packs and two ponchos to create a field expedient raft. They come in camouflage, which is an added benefit since it is difficult to find either good tents or tarps in camouflage.

Hammocks:

From the simple Guatemalan jungle hammock to modern asymmetrical ultra-light cocoon hammocks, hammocks are a tried and true way to get your ass off the hard and wet ground. Hammock sleeping is not for everyone as it can lead to sore backs and numb limbs and can be much colder than a tent. Modern hammock manufacturers, such as Hennessy have made great strides in alleviating these burdens, creating what amounts to hanging tents, replete with gear bags, accessory hooks, and a very unique bottom entry method. Not able to afford anything so modern, I opted for a cheap jungle hammock which I am able to pitch using my ponchos as a cocoon and a mattress pad for support. I don’t bother using it in very cold weather, as the added issue of cold wind whipping below you makes the idea less inviting than sleeping on the cold ground.

Field Expedient Shelters:

From palm frond huts to native American long houses, there are a milliuon ways to use your natural environment to shelter yourself. I would say to learn how to construct a few of them in theory, but do not practice. If every sierra club member can hold the tenant to leave no trace, it is doubly imperative for the guerrilla camper to do so, especially if you are attempting to stealth camp. If you must construct expedient shelters, please take them down and disguise the site as best you can afterwards, allowing the next guerrilla to come along to feel like an intrepid explorer treading on the site for the first time.

With a little thought it is easy to stay comfortable on the road, no matter what mother nature might throw at you.

Pitching Ponchos:

Army surplus ponchos can be had for fifteen to twenty dollars in a vast array of colors. (if Olive Drab and Camouflage can be considered a vast selection, that is) Old school ones are made of vinyl with silicon sealant on the seams, while newer ones are silicon impregnated nylon. There are dozens of ways to put up a poncho as a tent, and if you have the presence of mind to carry two the options are even greater. Golite, the maker of very highly regarded lightweight shelters has introduced a lightweight poncho tarp for $45, which I presume to be similar.

The Single Poncho Shelter:

A single poncho can be used as shelter in three basic ways, the pup tent, the lean to and the bivy sack.

Lean-to:

For the basic lean-to pitch, you will need two sticks of the same length, usually between 24 and 36 inches. You begin by staking down one side of the poncho using the installed grommets. Tie a four foot length of parachute cord to the two corners not staked down then tie stake loops into the outer ends of the ropes. The easiest way to do this is by folding the rope back on itself and trying a granny knot to make a hoop. Take the first stick and stick the tip of it into the grommet. You may need to shave the tip down with a pocket knife to make it fit. Stand the stick up using the cord to put tension on the ridge and stake the cord out at a 45 degree angle to the opening of the tent. Repeat this procedure with the opposite corner and move the stakes away from the tent to increase tension.

The Pup Tent:

A pup tent is a simple ridge tent. You will need six stakes and a single length of cord about 8 feet longer than the length of your tarp or poncho.

Lie the cord lengthwise along the ground.

Lay the tarp or poncho lengthwise along the cord and stake down one side of it.

Lift the poncho to the desired height and stake down the corners to create tension. (You can readjust them later, don’t get too precise.)

Tie a stake loop into each end of the cord by folding the end over and tying a simple over hand knot into the fold.

Stake down one side about two to three feet from the middle of the poncho or tarp, and slide your pole up under the rope to hold it up.

Sight Unseen - Guerrilla Camping 101.7

Draft originally posted at The Guerrilla News Network. Included here with GNN commentary courtesy of the GNN Archive.

Sight Unseen - Guerrilla Camping 101.7

Asset B10394 Posted By BlackPacker

Camouflage is one topic that is seldom covered in backpacking manuals, simply because hiking down the Appalachian Trail does not require you to sneak. However, if you are going to be walking any considerable distance without trails, you will find yourself crossing many right-of-ways and being forced to camp in locations where you are not wanted. Thus, camouflage is an essential task for any Guerilla Camper.

Camouflage is also a matter of courtesy and I wish more traditional hikers would begin to utilize it. While every hiking book talks about “leaving no trace�, is seems no one has considered “having no trace� of any importance to campers. It seems every tent out there is safety orange, fire engine red, sky blue or a combination of all three and few things bother me more than finding a hidden spot overlooking a gorgeous meadow, only to watch some guy set up his signal flag tent in the middle of the vista. Please, be inconspicuous, if only to not annoy me.

———————————

There are two parts to successful camouflage, equipment and action. Equipment is something best handled at home. Before “moving�, which often entails lots of sidewalk hiking and dubiously legal camping, I take the time to check all my gear. This allows me to inventory as well as check for damage and wear.

I begin with a small bottle of acrylic paint and a can of cheap, flat black spray paint and start by unpacking everything and laying it out as neatly as possible. I start with my pack, using the acrylic paint to paint buttons, slides, snaps on the pack and scratches on the frame. An excellent paint for this purpose is sold as surplus stores as M-Nu. If the frame is too scratched, I will take it outside and repaint it with the spray paint. I then repeat this with my ponchos, my hammock, my coats and my shoes. Eyelets, guy hooks and anything else shiny gets painted over. I then take my tent stakes and give them two coats of spray paint. This does not last long, but the only goal is to eliminate shine on the tops of the stakes. When they get shiny again, I cam always mud them over. In today’s littered America, no one notices anything shiny in the bushes anymore anyways.

Then I repack everything as it will be for the trip. I put on the pack and jump up and down, listening for the slapping of straps, jingling of loose catches. I wrap offenders in a single layer of electrical tape and repeat the process until the only sound is the occasional squeaking of my hip strap.

My equipment is now officially stealth.

—————————————————-

In practice, camouflage requires attention to 8 factors:

1: Shape and Outline – Few things stick out like a straight line or a human silhouette in the woods. Tent and tarp ridgelines are obvious even if the tarp is of a camouflage pattern. To hide tarp ridgelines you can add sticks under the tarp to give the top of the ridgeline a crumpled, irregular outline. The best bet is usually to pitch the tarp as low as you are comfortable with. I have pitched tarps low enough that raising my head in the morning was impossible, requiring instead for me to slide out of my sleeping bag.

2: Color and Texture – Remember that red tent? Nothing gives you away more than brightly colored gear. A red tent is an eviction notice. Even if you opt not to go with camouflage, choose tents and tarps in earth tones and neutral darks, which allow you to hide in. The same hold true with clothing, but try for darker colors. Camouflage clothing is often self defeating for the guerilla camper because it is conspicuous anywhere outside of hunting preserves. My only camouflage is my shell clothing and my ponchos. I wear khakis when hiking so I can spot ticks on my legs, but when trying to be inconspicuous in the woods, I’ll slip on my shell pants.

3: Shadow – While natural shadows provide good hiding places, your shadow can give you away easily. The shadow of a shelter at dawn can stretch across an entire valley. You can avoid this by pitching your tarp to the west of natural cover such as trees, rocks, or ledges.

4: Shine – This is mostly covered by preparing your equipment at home, so the sun doesn’t cast reflections off brass or aluminum snaps and grommets. However this also takes into account your tent material. Unfortunately, most plastic tarps and waterproof fabrics are naturally shiny. This can be alleviated by scattering dry dirt along the ridge of the tent. The left behind dust will dull the reflectiveness of the fabric. DO NOT USE MUD. Mud is shiny, hard to clean off and once dry becomes obvious as it cracks and crumbles. The reflection of eyeglasses can also be diminished by sprinkling dust on them, but don’t bother, you’ll probably just wreck your glasses.

5: Movement – Movement has a distinct effect on human vision. Our nervous system is attuned in such a way that if something moves we will instinctively look at it. It’s the reason why you can’t sit in a pub without constantly looking at a TV and its one reason a loose tarp flapping in the wind is painfully obvious even if it blends in perfectly.

6: Noise – The other reason a flapping tarp is obvious is the rhythmic snapping of loose corners and slack ridgelines. Pitching the tarp lower often alleviates this as well as additionally hiding the shape and outline of the tarp.

7: Scent – Scent is important no matter where you go, but usually not for human antagonists. Even in the middle of a national park you will find residents who it is best to avoid. The smells of campfires, food and cooking all attract wildlife. This can be fine if you are only expecting raccoons, but in area with bears you should keep all food at least 500 meters from camp and do all cooking at least 750-1000 meters away from camp. If you are doing stinky cooking (A hungry man can smell cooking bacon from two miles) don’t do it where you aren’t supposed to be. You can always cook a mile down the trail.

8: Light –Do not use flashlights after dark. If you must, diffuse the light through a dark colored sweater or t-shirt. If possible use a red lens filter, Maglites have an accessory pack with light filters, and Tikka’s Taktika headlamp has a switchable white/red filter. The same holds true with campfires and the telltale sparks of lighters and matches. On a cloudy moonless night, a cigarette can be seen from over a mile away, and the quickest way to get a ranger to your stealth site is a smoke trail.

By keeping these factors in mind, both while moving and while camping you will be much less likely to attract unneeded attention to yourself.

—————————————

Stalking:

Once in a while the daunting idea of backtracking two miles is too much when you encounter no trespassing signs. Often, I have encountered gated communities, golf courses and even public drives which the residents have chosen to close to the public. One must not forget train yards, either. At these times it is useful to move stealthily.

Sneaking into a train yard requires a different approach to making it through a gated community. Sometimes it is enough to simply be inconspicuous while at other times you will need to be nearly invisible.

Inconspicuous is easy. Shave and put on a clean shirt. Walk upright and smile a bit vacantly as if you live in the neighborhood and are just returning home from a nice hike with your gigantic homeless backpack. Often you’ll never even see anybody. If somebody is out watering their lawn, smile and nod. Congratulations, you’ve just joined middle America. If stopped, feign ignorance, nothing is as believable as an ignorant suburbanite.

Invisible is hard. Dark clothes, a dark pack and no jingling is imperative. If you sound like a herd of eight reindeers you’re not making it far. Recheck for sounds, especially sloshing which is most common. If possible put all water in one container or top it off before moving on. Tape or pack anything that is jingling or slapping. You will seldom need anything as over the top as facial camouflage, a dark scarf or handkerchief around the face and mouth will work for this and then you don’t look like rocky raccoon in your mug shot.

Moving is best done upright, unless your silhouette will give you away. Slowly place the ball of your lead foot on the ground. Listen closely for branches of leaves. If you hear it, move you foot a few inches and lower it again. Slowly place your weight down on that foot, and move your trail foot forward placing it on the ground in the same way. This is much easier done on gravel than through leaves. The trick to not dig as you place your foot. While moving, consciously consider noise, light, shadow, movement and silhouette. Do not climb fences, instead, look for gaps. Go over walls and obstacles with a low profile, by swinging your torso atop it then swinging your legs over as low as possible. If you must cross open areas, look for long shadows and move quickly and quietly, keeping as low a profile as possible. Move slowly and deliberately and resist the urge to run across open areas.

If you must crawl, the best way to move is by doing a modified push-up onto your hands and toes and crawling forward with one leg and arm at a time. The trick is to not shift your weight abruptly. I find it easiest to hover my body a few inches off the ground with my hands at chest breadth apart. Do not drag yourself as it leaves an obvious trail and makes too much noise.

I will be honest, I have seldom needed to become “invisible� to go anywhere, but when hiking with friends a playful game of stalking can be fun, especially with people who have watched too many “madman in the forest� horror films. Be careful though, sneaking under the picnic table and grabbing an ankle can get you kicked in the face.

—————

When to be seen.

Just as it is occasionally important to go undetected, there are occasions when being obvious is life saving. If you are ever in hunting areas, on or off season, do not attempt to go undetected. I carry two “safety orange� nylon pennants about a foot long. They weigh nothing, and I seldom think of them. If passing through hunting preserves, I always pitch my tarp in the middle of a clearing with the flags on either corner of my ridgeline. During turkey season I’ve seen guys blindly firing shotguns into bushes at the slightest scuttle. If there are guns around, do not go stealth. It is always better to be accosted for trespassing than shot for being a turkey.

BlackPacker R94457 4 years ago	I decided to skip mentioning camouflage makeup. I can’t imagine it being of use, and have never had reason to since the officers stopped making me do it. In my opinion, it’s gross. The leg is almost better, so I’ll probably get to leave town on monday. Might have one more by then. Thanks again for all the feedback everybody.
Wolfe R94462 4 years ago	You forgot lack of cotton. I play airsoft from time to time. It is sort of like paintball, but hurts like hell when you get hit. A few of the guys who play have taken it to an exstreme level and used night vision scopes, since my friends and I cann’t afford such nice equipment to take out the other team, we use camcorders. turns out that these camcorder’s work better, when the opposing team wears cotton fabric camoflage. Cotton Glows.
BlackPacker R94465 4 years ago	Interesting note. The only time I’ve used NVGs has been in military situations, and BDUs don’t glow. Does all cotton glow or only white? Do you know what causes it?
Babydoll59 R94472 4 years ago	That’s funny! Spray paint is also good if you’re required to wear gold shoes for work.
ShiftShapers R94490 4 years ago	Wilderness Survival Manuals > Survival, Evasion, and Recovery > Chapter I – Evasion > Camouflage a. Basic principles: (1) Disturb the area as little as possible. (2) Avoid activity that reveals movement to the enemy. (3) Apply personal camouflage. b. Camouflage patterns (Figure I-1): (1) Blotch pattern. [a] – Temperate deciduous (leaf shedding) areas. [b] – Desert areas (barren). [c] – Snow (barren). (2) Slash pattern. [a] – Coniferous areas (broad slashes). [b] – Jungle areas (broad slashes). [c] – Grass (narrow slashes). (3) Combination. May use blotched and slash together. Figure I-1. Camouflage Patterns c. Personal camouflage application follows: (1) Face. Use dark colors on high spots and light colors on any remaining exposed areas. Use a hat, netting, or mask if available. (2) Ears. The insides and the backs should have 2 colors to break up outlines. (3) Head, neck, hands, and the under chin. Use scarf, collar, vegetation, netting, or coloration methods. (4) Light colored hair. Give special attention to conceal with a scarf or mosquito head net. d. Camouflage patterns (Figure I-1): (1) Avoid unnecessary movement. (2) Take advantage of natural concealment: [a] – Cut foliage fades and wilts, change regularly [b] – Change camouflage depending on the surroundings. [c] – DO NOT select vegetation from same source. [d] – Use stains from grasses, berries, dirt, and charcoal. (3) DO NOT over camouflage. (4) Remember when using shadows, they shift with the sun. (5) Never expose shiny objects (like a watch, glasses, or pens) (6) Ensure watch alarms and hourly chimes are turned off. (7) Remove unit patches, name tags, rank insignia, etc. (8) Break up the outline of the body, “V” of crotch/armpits. (9) Conduct observation from a prone and concealed position *Also See: Movement* Post Modified: 11/05/05 00:26:19
ShiftShapers R94491 4 years ago	FM 20-3: Camouflage, Concealment, And Decoys FM 21-76-1: MCRP 3-02H: NWP 3-50.3: AFTTP (I) 3-2.26: Survival, Evasion, and Recovery Army Field Manuals [full list] Post Modified: 11/05/05 00:41:19
Snark R94531 4 years ago	Totally random thought. The other day, one of my students came to class with a camo t-shirt on, with the words “Ha! Now you can’t see me!” on the front. I laughed my ass off.
NoGodsNoMasters R94567 4 years ago	Man, I am so with you about the technicolor hiking gear. My brain cannot reconcile what is going on in people’s heads when they bring crap like that into pristine natural settings.
Snark R94570 4 years ago	I dunno, it seems that most of the clothing is earthtones…which is great. And it’s actually quite possible to find a backpack that’s not that funky- mine is sort of gray-green and olive. I think one of the worst offenders is actually outerwear and other waterproof stuff; jackets, gloves, hats, tents, bivi sacks, etc. I have yet to find a tent that’s not fucking iridescent; mine is charcoal and white, which is OK, but it’s got a yellow rain fly. It occurs to me that a lot of this stuff is so bright to increase visibility, such as to searchers looking for somebody lost.
BlackPacker R94587 4 years ago	That is the reason, Snark, to make sure you can be found. But some on. How many people who ‘need to be found’ are running around with tents? As for outerwear, I havn’t found much better than surplus gortex ECW (extreme cold weater) shell gear. It’s light, packs tight, and is camouflage. Still get wierd looks in the city though. We used to joke about being invisibile in the army. Flip our collars up and start acting up. “You can’t see me. I’m not here.” Then again, in the military position of rest, you are to keep your right foot planted. When placed at rest, most of my squad would start shuffling in circles, like our foot was nailed to the groud, so I guess we were all a little goofy.
BlackPacker R94597 4 years ago	Oh yeah, was just going to write someting and stumbled upon the first draft of this article. I felt I rambled too much in it so I didn;t use it. Camouflage is one of those things particular to a guerilla camper and not every kid with a backpack. If you are moving from place to place off established trails, Say, walking from Atlanta to Nashville, you will often have to impede on a variety of right of ways, camping in fields, under freeways, beside train tracks and in some of the most pristine wilderness you can imagine. There are a lot of people who don’t want you sleeping in those places and the best way to convince them they do is by not letting them even know that you’re there. Camouflage is about more than not being seen, it’s about not being detected. Picking up your trash, hiding your scorch and burying your crap is camouflage. You do it so the next guy to come along can share in the feeling of being the first person on earth to see this undisturbed land (while setting his tent up on top of your cat hole). Camouflage is about not buying a BRIGHT RED tent and annoying the hell out of me by camping in a meadow my site overlooks, and making at least a moderate attempt to blend into the wilderness. Civil society is all about standing out. When I leave society, I don’t want anything that advertises itself. No camping gear should be bright orange, except for a small nylon flag you use when camping in hunting preserves. Yes, sometimes you WANT people to know you’re there. Disappearing: Camouflaging a campsite is not difficult if you choose the correct gear. Make or buy your gear out of earth-tone fabrics, brown, green, black and tan that occur naturally where you will be traveling. I don’t own anything white because I don’t do much snow camping, and when I have, I’ve always hoped to be found, cause it almost guarantees a ride to warmer environments. Yes, sometimes you really want people to know you’re there. Now, as you walk through the evening, look for places the same color as your tent or tarp. Tan – Scrub, dry grasses, summer meadows, sandy areas, concrete. Black – Conniferous tree clutsters, ledge shadows, under freeways.(But why?) Green – Grass, bushes, etc. If you can’t find green in a forest… Brown – Fallen tree trunks, dirt. See green. Creating camouflage: You can always use materials around you to create natural camouflage, but it has its limits. Do not try to cover a two man tunnel tent in grass. This is just another reason to go with tarps or ponchos; you can pitch them in a variety of ways to work with your surroundings. The most important part of camouflage is hiding the outline. With tents and tarps this will always be the ridgeline, the straight strip along the top that works hardest to keep you dry. To break up the ridgeline, You can fold pleats in the fabric of a tarp, and tuck plant remnants into the folds. You can also pitch the tarp extremely low, allowing you to hide behind tall grass. Often you can find natural features, such as crevices that allow you to pitch the tarp almost flat. There is a place I found in California where two trees had grown in such a way next to a dry creek bed that it was actually possible to hang a hammock underground. If I hadn’t found it at nine in the morning, I would have stayed. —————————- what do you think?
quellmywhelm R94756 4 years ago	I’m lovin’ these posts, people need this information. I know there’s tons of ‘survival’ manuals out there, but I’m just finishing up Bradford Angier’s ‘How to Stay Alive In the Woods’, and I’m wondering what books, (besides the obvious Army Wilderness Training Manuals), you’ve read, and can recommend. I need to go on a trip…a hell of a long one, and learning long forgotten skills would sure as hell help me out.
Grym R94835 4 years ago	Is the B.C. rollin’ through the barracks for inspection later or what? M-Nu’s a life-saver. haha. good stuff BP—all the guerrilla camping sections. I was an 11B, so I know what yer sayin’. Army issu ECW gortex gear works very well—I was stationed in Alaska, so I frequently put the gear to the test—expensive, but well worth it if you’re gonna be out in the cold or rain.
lxpk R95434 4 years ago	I’ve been a guerilla camper for over a year now too and I love the bit about fixing noisy gear and sloshing. I have been stalking so long that it becomes force of habit to stalk everywhere at all times making as little sound as possible. I started practicing stealth techniques playing Airsoft in Vancouver with Canadian Forces guys. When it comes to woodland camo, CADPAT all the way. Many times I have crawled past enemy snipers, had enemy almost step on me, or hidden in plain sight with CADPAT. It really is too bad that it is so conscpicuous in civilian life to wear all CADPAT. However, in the United States most people don’t recognize the pattern and its digital nature almost makes it fashionable as opposed to scary. A CADPAT Catalog My 100L+ CADPACK).aspx I wanted one third-line pack to pack them all and in the compression straps bind them. The LRPP swallows several smaller lighter sub-backpacks that compartmentalize second-line kits like my clothes and computing gear. And it has some military extras. Nice to know I can use the rapelling harness if I have to rapell off a building in a hurry carrying a 120L load. And the price isn’t as much as it seems because it is in Canadian dollars. By the way Wolfe, I recognize you. We always meant to get together foar an airsoft op some time but never managed to. IR camcorders would be an interesting hack. Night fighting is psychologically harrowing as it is, but against people with NVG it is like being up against the invisible Predator. With the exception of some wilderness trips I have stayed mostly urban and sought to maintain access to civilized staples like the convenience of a hot shower every morning. What I love about your guides Blackpacker is the amount of field-testing your words clearly reflect. You have been there and tried things on a long enough timeline to discover Mean Times Between Failure and what is worth carrying when you are traveling long distances. Thank you for sharing your experience and I do hope you produce a book. By the way, check out Patrolling, one of the shows my friend Sean Kennedy The Fucking Man has put together. Many of the episodes deal with guerilla camping survival techniques. Patrolling with Sean Kennedy

Dying of Thirst - Guerrilla Camping 101.6

Draft originally posted at The Guerrilla News Network. Included here with GNN commentary courtesy of the GNN Archive.

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Dying of Thirst - Guerrilla Camping 101.6

Asset B10297 Posted By BlackPacker

Our bodies are made up of 75% water, thus the effects of dehydration are fast and debilitating. Although you can survive without water for a number of days, you will do it with lethargy, a headache, joint pains and muscle cramps. Thus, water should be of constant concern, both in the city and in the woods. Fortunately, water also covers over 75% of the planet, so finding it is usually not difficult. Finding clean, safe water can be more problematic however.
The EPA estimates that 90% of the world fresh water is unsafe to drink without treatment. The World Health Organization sites waterborne gastrointestinal infections as the cause of 80% of all disease; killing 50,000 people daily. There are dozens of ways water can become contaminated; the most likely being agricultural and industrial run off. Although water can be invisibly contaminated, quite often you can judge water though a variety of factors.
Foam: If the shores have foam, leave it alone. Water does not foam. If there is foam present in the water, it indicates heavy contamination. Do not drink it. Even though you may be tempted to, especially if it is miles to the next clean source and you are running low but remember that intestinal illness is a much greater dehydrator than a few miles walking and foam can even indicate industrial runoff, and god only knows what that stuff will do to you.
Stagnant Water: Sitting water is generally a bad idea to drink. Stagnant pools are collection points for everything that can possibly be washed into them, Since the only way for these pools to empty is through evaporation, a contaminated pool remains contaminated for years on end, and actually becomes more contaminated as less and less water remains.
Agricultural Runoff. If there is a pasture on the water front anywhere up stream, use great caution, and preferably avoid drinking it. Most intestinal diseases are spread through feces, which spreads easily through the ground during rain.
Industrial Runoff: Mining pollutes ground water with a variety of chemicals, as do a great number of industrial practices. (Flouride is a byproduct of aluminum production). Avoid water down hill from mining and industrial areas, since poisons like cyanide, arsenic and things I’m too freaked out about to look up can be present.
Alkalis: In some areas, springs can have a dangerously high alkaline content drawn from leeching through minerals in the ground. Fortunately, Alkali tainted water is bitter and leaves a long after taste in the mouth, so it is pretty easily identified.
Tannic Acid: Tannic acid lends a brown color to water, although by itself, it is not toxic, even in large quantities. I looks like watered down soda pop and is caused by water leeching the tannic acid from trees like cedar.
Giardia: Not so affectionately known as Beaver Fever due to the myth that beaver droppings spread the infection, Giardia is a protozoan that rose to prominence during the 1980s due to heightened numbers of infection among backpackers and campers. Some speculate that this protozoa has been with us for eons, but a combination of day to day sterility and use of antibiotics have weakened our natural immunities to it. The increase of agricultural meadowland along watersheds has also contributed to an increase in infections since it is spread through fecal matter.
Crypto: Cryptosporadium is another protozoan responsible for diuretic distress and is the most common cause of everyday diarrhea. Neither iodine nor chorine will kill it, although it is susceptible to boiling and filtering, but only if you are using a 1 micron or smaller filter. Most ceramic hiking filters will filter crypto. Fortunately, once you get crypto, you will have a slight immunity to it that gradually builds.
E. Coli: Not much of a problem in pristine mountains, E. Coli is found in shallow groundwater sources contaminated with animal waste.
Caffeine , Carbon Dioxide, Corn Syrup and Coloring: Soda pop is poison. It melts your teeth, dehydrates you and is produced by some pretty despicable multinationals. While I use soda cans to make stoves, I won’t even pick up a used coca-cola can for fear that somebody might think I actually support the bastards.
Treating Water
Boiling: Boiling is one of the safest methods of treating water, although it will not remove chemical pollutants. Boiling can also be used with other forms of treatment to just to be sure. It makes the water taste flat, but that can be remedied by pouring it from one container to another a few times, which also speeds the cooling process.
Iodine: One of the most common methods of treating water, iodine kills giardia and many other waterborne diseases, but it is unable to kill crypto due to a protective cyst around the organism. Iodine collects in the body over any period of use, so it is not recommended for constant use and this is why the public water system does not use it for purification. Iodine leaves a bad taste in the water which can be neutralized with a small bit of ascorbic acid (Powdered vitamin C (Citric Acid) works too). Before adding flavor neutralizers, make sure the iodine has had at least fifteen to twenty minutes to purify the water, thirty of the water is cold. Iodine tablets are sold under the brand names Portable Aqua and Polar Pure and for a few bucks more you can get an additional bottle of PA plus, ascorbic acid tablets that neutralize the taste of the iodine. Iodine looses its effectiveness once exposed to air, so once you open a bottle try to use it in a few weeks or buy a new bottle. It is also discourages for anyone with a thyroid condition, and those allergic to shellfish, since shellfish allergies are often caused by the iodine they contain.
Chlorine: Forget it. Chlorine is one of the least effective methods of cleansing water, although it has the benefit of not leaving behind a chemical after taste. Chlorine bleach is suggested for use during emergencies where municipal water systems have been compromised.
Water Filters: I love mine. I have drank from murky green horse troughs, yielding crisp clean water and not gotten sick. Filters can pricy and some people doubt their usefulness to weight ratio, however while completing Ranger school, I had the chance to drink swamp water, filtered through a t-shirt and treated with extra strength (and extra tasty) iodine tablets. To this day I refuse to drink "Superfoods" or other macrobiotic "green protein" drinks because of that one "opportunity" If you opt to buy a filter, do not go cheap, make sure the filter has a filtration level of less than 2 microns, as anything higher will neither eliminate Giardia nor crypto.
Aquamira: The aquamira system consists of two bottles, one containing Chlorine Dioxide (not really chlorine) and food grade phosphoric acid. By pre-mixing the two and adding it to water, it oxygenates the water, killing any biological contaminants. It requires a 30 minute wait, but leaves no foul taste and is supposedly more effective than either iodine or chlorine.
Carrying Water:
It is said that 64 ounces a day is a good amount of water to consume. However, this does not mean you should go tramping off into the woods with two 32 ounce bottles, since you will also need water for cooking and cleaning.
Water Bottles: These can be as simple as recycled soda bottles, which have the benefit of being collapsible when empty, or as complex as varnished aluminum sig bottles. I personally carry two wide mouth lexan plastic bottles which screw directly onto the bottom of my water filter. I also carry a rolled up two liter bottle in the bottom of my pack for use at camp or to carry additional water in dry locales. I also occasionally will carry a half liter water bottle which I use to drink from while walking because I can carry it in my pocket.
Water Bags: Water bags are no good for carrying water, since they slosh and shift weight, but they are great for storing water. A number of hikers recommend using one just for camp, to prevent constantly running for more water. It is also a simple matter to turn a water bag into a camp shower by buying a second cap, which you use a hot pin to make holes in.
Hydration Bladders: Most commonly referred to by the brand name Camelbak, hydration bladders are incorporated into most modern, high-end backpacks. I have considered modifying my ruck sack to accommodate one but the price, difficulty in cleaning and threat of a puncture turn me off to the idea. There are useful however, and I know many people who swear by them and the convenience of having a straw draped over your shoulder does encourage good drinking habits.
Collapseable Jugs: Skip em. They are great for car camping, but are difficult to carry, puncture easily, and after getting folded up a few dozen times they break open. I carried one for fourteen days. I used it at camp for five, and then carried the broken piece of plastic for nine days just to throw it out.
Finding water:
I advocate always carrying a map, which is the best way to find water, although hiking an extra mile to a dry creek bed in the middle of summer can be disappointing. Look for downhill valleys which channel water, abrupt changes in vegetation, willow trees are notorious for growing by springs and lakes as is cottonwood in drier regions. Large flocks of quail, rockdoves and other foraging birds can indicate a water source nearby. In arid or desert regions look for shocks of green vegetation, which indicate a source or at least shallow groundwater, which can be dug for. If you have to dig more than a foot, give up and try someplace else. In the desert, look for reflections, but this can be tricky, as what seems to be a reflection of water could simply be a mirage.
Emergency Water:
Water is everywhere, thankfully and it is not hard to gather water in the woods. However, should you find yourself without, there are a number of tricks to collect water.
Put a plastic bag around tree branches and tie it off. The moisture from the tree will condense in the bag over a few hours, yielding a few sips of water.
Dig a hole, deep enough to place your water bottle into and a foot or two wide. Lay a plastic sheet (tarps and space blankets work) over the hole, and put a small rock in the middle, directly over your water bottle. The day time heat will cause water to evaporate, which will collect on the tarp, running down and gradually dripping into your water bottle. If you are in a true survival situation, you should also know that this method will allegedly distill urine into drinkable water.
Rain. God I love rain water. Clean, fresh and easy to collect. If a storm is coming I will often leave my cookpot and a water bottle out and open in a clearing, even if I’m camped out near a river. I don’t however do this in or near cities as I feel (Maybe I’m wrong) that even the air is dirty there.
Dew Mopping: Use a piece of cloth early in the morning to wipe dew from the landscape and then wring it into a cup. Don’t gather dew from poisonous plants though. This is actually a pretty effective way to acquire water. You should still treat water gathered in this matter.
Thirsty yet?

TheHyperT R93789 4 years ago	You know I’m a camper guy too, maybe not as advanced as you are but I know some things. My main areas are fire and navigation (no, I dont use GPS, mainly because they dont have maps from were I live) but I didnt know how to collect water. Thx for the data
fennec R93800 4 years ago	Good blog, now I’m thirsty…
ShiftShapers R93805 4 years ago	you can always evaporate and condensate the water from your own urine. there are a few ways, but i think the most practical is to dig a hole, piss in it, and place a cup or bowl, or even bark or leaf if necessary, in the middle of the hole, and put a shirt or better a tarp or plastic bag with a rock in the middle so it droops at a point above the container so the condesation runs down and drips in. life or death man. LOL
ShiftShapers R93807 4 years ago	oh yeah you’ll have to anchor whatever you put over the hole, just with rocks or something
fennec R93810 4 years ago	I always had a feeling ss drank his own piss. My suspicions are now confirmed. Post Modified: 11/01/05 21:28:28
BurningMonk R93873 4 years ago	I travelled through West Africa once and when we were in Ghana (beautifull country btw) we could chose between 2 types of water: “piu watha” (pure water) and “ice watha” (ice water). The pure water is water like we buy it in bottles, only it comes in little (sealed) plastic sacks. This was considered safe to drink. The ice water is tapwater in platic sacks. Since this water isn’t treated, it is considered not so safe. Ice water is cheaper then pure water. Every tourist buys pure water of course but because we had already travelled for 2,5 months before we arrived in Ghana our “bowel flora” was already “well adjusted” (read: we already had our share of travellers diarea) so we could drink the ice water. What most tourists don’t realize that their food is also treated with tapwater, the icecubes in their coca cola are made of tapwater, ...
ShiftShapers R93886 4 years ago	shit-eating grin
Snark R93888 4 years ago	BM- yep, that’s why my diet always just goes to hell whenever I travel. I refuse to eat any salad or fresh veggie, unless I’m absolutely positive it’s been soaked in purified or iodinated water, and sometimes not even then. Since I’m usually to be found eating in the cheap backpacker joints, I just don’t even bother with it- cooked and piping hot is the only way I’ll eat it unless I’m cooking for myself.
hagcel R93902 4 years ago	When I went to Korea, Everyone told me not to drink the water, so I went out and started right up eating and drinking all the local food and water I could find. I was sick for a week and a half, then had no further problems the rest ofthe time was there. Thinking of it,with numerous trips to Mexico and friends around me getting sick, I havn’t since then. Hmmmmmmm. Antibiotics kill immunity as well as infection, good point….. And fuck, BP do you work for the water dept?
BlackPacker R96327 4 years ago	Hagcel, good point about building immunities. However, you have to be careful, in some third world countries, surface water can be contaminated with far nastier stuff than Giardia or Crypto, including hepatitits. And I ain’t down for the jaundice.
BlackPacker R96328 4 years ago	Oh yeah. I learned something the other day…. Treat with iodine first, ignroe the neutralizer then filter, a 1 micron filter will filter out iodine. I met a couple who do group guides, taking out scout troops, etc… They use the same filter as I do, and say their filter elment has lasted fifteen years…. Woot.

Burn Baby Burn! - Guerilla Camping 101.5

Draft originally posted at The Guerrilla News Network. Included here with GNN commentary courtesy of the GNN Archive.

Burn baby Burn! - Guerrilla Camping 101.5

Asset B10249 Posted By BlackPacker

*To keep up to date on my current writing and articles, please visit my page at GuerrillaCamping.Blogspot.com*
To Build a Fire
Although restrictions in many national and state parks prohibit fire building the skill is one of the most essential to anyone who would seek to make the outdoors their home. There are as many ways to build fires as there are types of wood to burn, from the humble cook fire to the raging bonfire. Here I will discuss a few of the ways I use to light it up.
Preparing the fire circle.
Preparing an area for a fire is essential. A forest floor is composed of layers. The top layer, fallen leaves, grasses and dirt obviously need to be cleared away, but those unfamiliar with the woods might not recognize the duff beneath it. Duff is the layer of soil just underneath the surface. Composed of decaying plant and animal matter, under the right circumstances, loam will develop into peat moss, a soft coal like fuel that burns with a dark and heavy smoke. Even before it becomes peat, this layer, despite its moisture, is still flammable and can cause a few interesting problems. I have seen fires spread underground through smoldering loam and once these subterranean embers start is can be VERY VERY hard to put out.
To prepare an area for a fire, scrape away ALL ground cover until you have an area of bare dirt. Keep the scrapings nearby, although far enough from the fire that you will not dry the pile out. After your fire is finished and extinguished, you will want to replace this layer both to conceal the dame your fire has done and to ensure that the forest floor is not scarred.
Once you do this, you can begin to create your fire. The first thing you will do is gather wood. Keep in mind that the forest floor is alive. Fallen logs and branches provide shelter to bugs which help regenerate the soil. Avoid gathering logs embedded in the forest floor (If a thousand beetles run for cover when you pick it up, put it back.) The wood you gather should be in three categories. Tinder, Kindling and Fuel.
Tinder is small scraps and wood shavings. I often carry a small pouch of dry grass and twigs in my bag for use in the rain, but seldom need it. Another method for this, which I once used is cotton balls coated in petroleum jelly. I often use my hatchet to shave off a pile of wood chips, which is easier than using a knife and happens anyways if you are splitting logs. Old birds nests, dry sap, and dry brush also work well.
Kindling is pencil sized twigs. These must also be dry, but are easy to find. Spruce trees, due to their thick canopy protect their lower branches from rain and it is usually easy to snap off a few small twigs from such a tree. You can also use strips of wood shaved from the side of a log and in heavy wind flat thin pieces will serve to insulate the fire as it build.
Fuel is your logs. I seldom use anything larger than an inch around and if I buy firewood, I will always split the logs. This allows you to keep the fire manageable while also greatly reducing the amount of wood you need. It is also much easier to get a 1 inch thick log to burn than it is to get a four inch log to burn.
To create your fire, begin by creating a foundation of two or three small sticks on the cleared ground. This keeps your tinder off the ground and dry while offering a bit of convection current to provide air to the fire. Create a loose pile of tinder on this foundation and then place a few pieces of kindling across the top. I generally lean the sticks up like a teepee, but there are many ways to do this.
Once you have your pile, strike a match and hold it carefully to the tinder until spent. If you tinder is dry, you should have a small fire going already. Gradually add larger pieces of wood until satisfied.
Cleaning up: Pour water on the fire until it stops steaming. Really. Until it stop steaming. If you are using thick logs, this can take quite a bit of water and failure to get the wood to stop steaming can allow the remaining wood to dry itself while smoldering and re-ignite. Once done, let the circle sit for a bit and check it periodically to look for warm spots or embers. Once you are certain that the fire is out and the ground is cool to the touch, replace the cleared soil and try your best to conceal all hints of the blaze.
Types of fires:
The campfire, a robust, smoky and warm blaze is one of the most destructive fires. It sterilizes the soil beneath it and around it and consumes tons of wood which would otherwise eventually become soil itself. I only make campfires in public parks with circles and fire wood for sale, and only when in a group.
The warming fire uses little wood, never anything bigger than an inch thick, and is built to provide warmth. This fire is easily built, managed and extinguished, but does leave traces.
The cookfire. This is my most common fire. It uses no logs at all, relying on a constant supply of kindling to heat a single pot. It is the easiest fire to clean up after, but one of the hardest fires to get the hang of making. Its biggest benefit is the ability to completely conceal it�s location, leaving behind no charred earth or blackened rocks, since the kindling used to stoke the fire is completely consumed when finished.
Types of fire starters:
Lighters. The best bet for initial outings, the convenience of a plastic butane lighter is unmatched. Zippos and other liquid fuel lighters are not such a good bet since they run dry quickly. You can however fill a zippo with coleman stove fuel (or Bacardi 151) if you carry a stove that uses it.
Matches: There are a thousand types of matches. The paper ones in books, although the most common are useless since sweat in your pocket can render them soggy and unlightable. My favorite matches are called hurricane matches and have heads about an inch long. When struck, hurricane matches provide about ten seconds of flare, making the initial lighting quite easy.
Flint and Steel: Not actually made of flint, but of Ziconium, the magnesium fire starter is my preferred method of fire starting. By striking the flint with the back of your pocket knife, you create a flurry of sparks that ignites almost anything. By shaving bits of magnesium from the handle of the striker you create a very fast burning tinder, but this is usually not needed. The best way to use one of these is to use fiberous tinder, and pinch the piece against the front of your knife. As you drag the blade along the flint the tinder will catch a number to the sparks and should erupt into a small ember. Drop this ember on your tinder pile to get the fire going.
Survival Tools: Ranging from a flint and wheel like those found on lighters to cold weather, one-handed tools like the blast match, most of these fire starters are gimmicks in my opinion, though I have found uses for a blast match in very cold environments..
The Bow Drill. I love the bow method, but construction of a base, spindle, handle and bow can be time consuming. If you wish to learn this method, look into it and practice as you sit around your campfire. It took me about 50 tries before I got my first ember, and even now I only get it going about half the time. But it's great to impress friends once you learn how to do it. One of the best sources for learning to create the bow drill or hand drill fire starter is old boy scout manuals.
The Nuclear Option: I seldom do this, but in raining cold with numb fingers it is a useful method. Pour about an ounce of fuel across the tinder and flick a match into it. It is messy, stinks and should, of course, only be used in emergencies.
The fire starting kit: I carry my matches in an old film canister, along with two birthday candles. If you can find them, the novelty candles that relight after blown out work great, but I haven�t found them anywhere. I put a piece of cotton ball across the tops of the matches to keep them from igniting in the canister, but I almost think the threat of that happening is an old wives tale. I also carry a flint striker on the draw string to my pack where it is easy to find when needed.

sisyphus R93390 4 years ago	Another great entry, I have nothing to add except what your title referenced: To Build a Fire – Jack London Sometimes fiction drives a point home better than anything.
silverback R93422 4 years ago	another great chapter
Snark R93427 4 years ago	As usual, a fantastic blog….can’t tell you how much I enjoy these. Well-written, entertaining, and insanely useful. I wanted to comment specifically on your practices of minimizing the impact your fire has on the forest floor. I can’t tell you how glad it makes me that you included that. The forest floor is absolutely loaded with bacteria, fungi, and other decomposers that are absolutely essential to the functioning of the ecosystem- they break down leaf litter and return the nutrients to the soil and the plants. Carefully clearing your fire ring and later replacing the layers of humus-rich soil you displace is a really important thing to do from an ecological standpoint. Likewise, the huge, hot, smoky campfire does indeed totally sterilize the soil underneath it to a depth of at least a foot. If you’re making one in an established campground, the fire rings there are basically sacrifice zones, but making one on virgin ground is a bad idea. A small fire minimizes the damage.
redoubt R93449 4 years ago	Bump….....
BlackPacker R93450 4 years ago	Not only does fire sterlize, that humus and duff, once dried by the fire above it becomes flamable. I have seen fires spread underground, requiring lots of digging (and thus trashing) of the forest floor. Honestly, a cook fire is best made inside a hobo stove, but until I get some way to put photos and illustrations in here, I’m skipping stoves and how to string up a tarp.
hagcel R93822 4 years ago	Another great way to start a fire: Fuck tinder. Take about three feet of toilet paper and wrap it around your hand. Hold the top in about hal way, then flip it over on your hand and fold the bottom in about half way, making a donut. Set under kindling, ignite and get warm. And if you don’t carry toilet paper, you’re a savage, you can probably start fires with a hard gaze.
nada R94272 4 years ago	Fun ways to start fire: Magnifying glass and cotton ball, Hemp rope and flint/tinder, and my favorite Steel wool and a 9volt battery. Not for conservationists: Fill a coffee can with gasoline get a buncha styrofoam and drop it in the can. Watch as it melts, fill with styrofoam until it reaches its solubility point. You now have a coffee can full of napalm.
ZenSwashbuckler R94279 4 years ago	And if you don’t carry toilet paper, you’re a savage, you can probably start fires with a hard gaze. That stuff just doesn’t decompose, man. Sits there for years (or months, maybe… I do know it is unpleasant to find a lump of the stuff laying there, grinning smugly up at you, under the rock you just picked up for the same purpose). Unless you’re in an all-evergreen forest, you can find some nice big leaves to wipe your ass with, perfectly good. Smooth stones also do the trick, but their fixed shape means you’ll want to finish up with something that can bend to your peculiar form, just to get everything. Unfortunately I haven’t yet mastered the evil eye thing.
hagcel R94348 4 years ago	Thats why you burn it or pack it out. I should have mentioned above that uded toilet paper works even better, but wait a few minutes before cooking on it. lol… Tha magnifying glass thing is fun. I use a lensatic marching compas and can start fires with the lens on that. The most fun is the bow drill. Especially if you are bored at a camp site and make one using chipped rocks and foraged cordage.